Today I was out with Jasmin and Ian. They are heading off to try Island Peak in Nepal in April and were looking to gain some experience of steeper snow climbing, use their Jumars, for ascending fixed ropes and practice their abseiling. Stob Coire nan Lochan was busy today, with masses of folk queuing again on Dorsal Arete. Parties were on Central Groves, Scabbard Chimney and Ordinary Route and in NC Gully. New snow had fallen overnight and which had been shifted on strong south westerly winds and consequently there was allot of evidence of avalanches on North East Faces.
We headed up onto the fine mountaineering ground from the lowest point on the buttress under Boomerang Gully. From there we headed up grade 1/11 ground and short steps of mixed ground up to grade 3 and we had it all to ourselves! We looked at taking stances, crampon use, the use of one and two ice axes and through some short roping in for good measure. We topped out right at the summit after approx 300m of fun climbing. A great day with two charming people.
Today I was working for Focus Mountaineering .
